A Spirited Week of Cocktails and Conversations at Bar Convent Brooklyn
Bar Convent Brooklyn, the two-day Kings County offshoot of Bar Convent Berlin, took place this week Industry City in South Brooklyn, spread out across three warehouse-sized buildings and adjoining courtyards within view of Gowanus Bay.
The conference is a trade-only affair and attracts thousands of international members of the bar and beverage community. This was my sixth year attending BCB and while I still have issues with the location, layout, and some specific logistics, it’s quite productive to have so many world-class brands and bartenders here in New York, both at BCB and out and about among the many parties, pop-ups, takeovers, tastings, and events.
This year’s montage of BCB memories is focused less on the many spirits I had the time to taste and more about the people behind them. Some are old friends while others are new faces that I hope to see again. But all of them celebrate this bar industry that I orbit and chronicle.
Monday
Dante x Trick Dog
While I was inundated with invites (a good problem to have, I know) for parties and pop-ups around NYC on Monday—the eve of Bar Convent Brooklyn’s official kick-off—I kept a low profile, attending just two events in Manhattan.
Over three afternoons at Caffe Dante, San Francisco’s award-winning bar Trick Dog, who celebrated their 10th anniversary last year (which I wrote about on VinePair), stepped behind the Greenwich Village bar to share a selection of their signature cocktails. Known for innovative themed menus, the Trick Dog team (represented by Founder and Owner Josh Harris, General Manager Nick Amano-Dolan, and Lead Bartender Colleen Downey) featured a throwback to their original 2013 launch menu, presented as a Pantone color swatches.
Trick Dog Featured Menu:
Modern Romance (Served Long)
(Bombay Sapphire Gin, Orange Bitter, Martini & Rossi Sweet Vermouth, Strawberry, Szechuan Pepper, Heavy Cream, Egg White, Lemon)Tomato Tango (Served On a Big Cube)
(Patron Silver Tequila, Luxardo Bitter Bianco, Raspberry, Tomato, White Cacao)
Cat’s Eye (Served Long)
(Grey Goose Vodka, Amaro Averna, Passion Fruit, Orange, Guava, Fizzy Water)
The Sleeping Angel (Served Up)
(Angel's Envy Bourbon, Amaro Meletti, Quince Brandy, Saffron, Lemon)
Honey Gold (Non-Alc, Served Long)
(Martini & Rossi Floreale, Tonic, Lemon, Salt)
I’ve been to Trick Dog a number of times over the years and featured the bar in my book Last Call, so it was great to catch up with Josh. I followed his lead and ordered what he was drinking, the non-alcoholic highball the Honey Gold, made with the excellent Martini & Rossi Floreale. It was, hands down, my favorite drink on the list.
On sight alone, I had to try the Modern Romance, which came on like a spirited glass of Strawberry Quick Milk.
The tequila-spiked Tomato Tango was inventive, but a bit too spirit-forward for my taste.
And speaking of Last Call, it was great to see Chad Spangler, the founder and owner of Washington DC’s acclaimed Service Bar, which was also featured in the book, and where we taped my Thanksgiving Eve All Things Considered segment with Ari Shapiro.
The New York Cocktail Company Launch at The Carlyle
And then it was back uptown to The Carlyle to celebrate the official launch of The New York Cocktail Company. I’ve been collaborating with the team on the launch of these New York-based bottled cocktails, and it’s great to see the initial lineup of Negroni variations (Negroni, Espresso Negroni, Chocolate Negroni, Negroni Mezcalito) come to fruition, with more to come.
Still insecure from my recent, inaugural trip to Bemelmans Bar, I cleaned myself up a bit and wore a jacket and tie, though I was sporting dark-washed denim below the waist doing my best to pass as an ‘80s-era member of the Literary Brat Pack.
The party was held in the Versailles Suite on the second floor of The Carlyle, whose walls The walls are decorated with bespoke “Upper East Side” wallpaper designed by New York artist Carly Beck that feature a cast of whimsical yet urbane furry friends during their stay at The Carlyle.
In attendance were Dante owners Linden Pride and Nathalie Hudson, Rodrigo Octávio Leme, Dante’s Director of Business Development, and Renato M. Tonelli, Dante’s Beverage Training Director along with some of the local producers whose spirits are used in these custom blends.
The rest of the crowd was mostly influencers, which seems to be the norm these days—a mix of Who is that woman, she must be famous, right? to a trio of young dudes in baggy shorts and T-shirts who were of that I’m famous so I can wear what I want school even if they weren’t. I’m not a fan of dress codes, but when you’re at The Carlyle, respect the room.
I am obsessed with the particular blend of the Bemelmans Bar mixed nuts, espeically the sugary hazelnuts (I think).
Italian entrepreneur and bar and beverage consultant Giancarlo Mancino.
Everyone’s favorite “cowboy-hat-wearing jazz pianist” Louis B Middleton was behind the baby grand in the corner of the room.
Tuesday
Bar Convent Brooklyn
The two buses I had planned to take to Industry City were both over a half-hour late so I was behind schedule when I picked up my media credentials (not counting the always confusing art of actually navigating the grounds where Bar Convent Brooklyn is held.
The first and only education panel I was able to attend was “Mixing Cultures: The Art of International Hospitality,” hosted by Paola Pavan, featuring Damiano Coren (Saint Ambroeus), Jose Ignacio "Nacho" Jimenez (Superbueno), and Takuma Watanabe (Martiny's & L'Americana). I had also hoped to attend “Sweet Imo-tion: The History, Production and Mixology of Japan’s Sweet-potato Shochu“ and “Modern Modification: Demystifying Aperitifs presented by Lo-Fi Aperitifs” but the time flew by fast and I had other obligations.
My time wandering the actual brand booths and tasting their wares was abbreviated. There wasn’t any particular new release that caught my eye and I mostly checked in with many of my Italian friends who were there, including Lucano, Meletti, Varnelli, and Campari, among others, and tried a handful of new vermouth expressions from smaller producers.
Amaro Lucano’s Leonardo Vena, Stefano Caporale, and Francesco Vena.
Amaro Lucano’s Rosistella Provinzano Vena and Letizia Vena.
I had the chance to first try this Non-Alcoholic Amaro Lucano last year in Italy and it’s remained a favorite of mine. It’s perfect neat but they were also showing of its versatility in a spirit-free Americano.
It’s always great to see my friend Matteo Meletti!
My friend Luca Missaglia of The Art of Shaking and Amaro Santoni.
Pacific Northwest in the house! Fast Penny Spirits’ founder Jamie Hunt.
Christina Helmer, wearer of many stylish hats at Don Fulano Tequila.
Lo-Fi Aperitifs’ Marlo Gamora demonstrating the art of rocking a stylish peach-colored jumpsuit.
Campari America’s Italian Spirits Portfolio Ambassador Olivia Cerio.
Paws down, my favorite takeaway item were these enamel pins from Castle & Key Distillery celebrating Rick Key, their bow-tie wearing distillery cat who is a fan-favorite on the Distillery Cats Instagram.
Haus Alpenz Book Signing
The highlight of my day was my book signing for Amaro at the booth of Haus Alpenz, the notable importer of fine and traditional aperitifs, amari, wine, spirits, and liqueurs. My thanks to Eric Seed, David Phillips, Whitney Murphy, Thierry Morpurgo, Jake Parrott, and the rest of the team at Haus Alpenz for hosting me and for their continued support of my work.
They brought in two cases of Amaro for me to sign and pass along gratis to those who might want a copy. My slot was sandwiched between two very notable Daves, Dave Arnold and Dave Wondrich.
I served Negroni Sbagliatos made with Cappelletti Aperitivo Mazzura, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino ‘Storico,’ and Prosecco and I had a nice turnout of familiar faces like Roberto Bava of Cocchi and Bava Winery along with my dear friend Emma Forster of Faccia Brutto Spirits, who was sporting a custom T. Edwards Spirits white jumpsuit (so many jumpsuits!). It was really nice to meet so many new folks, many of whom were subscribers to LAST CALL.
After the signing I made one last lap trying to find the Faccia Brutto booth to no avail and then retired to the Carreau Club, Industry City’s home for all things pétanque, to post up at the Haus Alpenz VIP Lounge, where the brand was hosting attendees who wanted to take a break and stop by for a sandwich and a drink. The Cubano I ordered was the only thing I’d eaten all day aside from nibbling on dried apricots I kept in a Ziploc in my messenger bag. I posted up for an hour, signing more copies of Amaro and chatting with guests—and I caught up with the VinePair crew who stopped by to join me at the end.
Bar Goto Niban
I was running a little late to my next destination (thank you any and all publicist who offer Uber Codes!), an iichiko Shochu Summer Party at Bar Goto Niban in Park Slope featuring a menu of refreshing highballs and cocktails, Shaved Ice from Kuramoto Ice, the Karl’s Balls Takoyaki Truck, and a sideboard of Bar Goto signature bar snacks.
The bar was crowded but still comfortable and Kenta-san was kind enough to seat me at a corner bar stool. I tried the Jasmine & Plum Chūhai (iichiko Silhouette, Jasmine, Ume Plum Soda) and the Koji-San (iichiko Saiten, Mezcal, Lime, Celery) and a small plate of their delicious Kombu Celery and Miso Wings.
Grand Army x Yacht Bar
Keeping things close to where I live, had intended my penultimate stop of the night to be Grand Army where the Denver bar Yacht Club was popping-up with a special menu, a country music soundtrack, and hot dogs. I had missed Monday’s event there with Miami’s Bar Kaiju, but I had attended their 2023 pop-up at Grand Army. I was looking forward to the Yacht Club event but by the time I arrived an hour after they opened the doors it was packed to the gills with a raucous crowd. Any chance of finding a seat, or even a place to stand, wasn’t going to happen. Despite seeing many familiar faces, I wasn’t feeling it. I only went to a handful of events but so many I saw on Insta Stories all week were really pushing the over-the-top theatrics and crowded and sweaty My Girl Wants to Party All the Time vibes. I don’t mind the occasional shenanigans, but that’s not my scene. “Have fun. I’m out,” I said to the respective publicists of each bar then walked back to my apartment and called it an early night.
Wednesday
Dante West Village x Handshake
It was back to Manhattan on Wednesday afternoon, with a bar seat reservation at Dante West Village for the last day of the pop-up experience of the Mexico City cocktail bar, Handshake Spekeasy, recently named the No. 1 Bar in North America.
Things started off quietly but the bar seats quickly filled up and the narrow space was soon standing-room-only as the soulful sounds of Cuban singer Chino Pons and his band filled the room (I had the honor of Chino Pons and his band serenading me on my birthday during my Wednesday Residency at Dante last January).
Handshake’s Eric van Beek, the owner and cocktail creator, and bartender Ana Herrera took over, serving a limited menu of some of their signature drinks. As it was the last day, they had sold through at least one of the drinks featured the Monday and Tuesday menu and van Beek advised me that the Peanut, Butter, Jelly! wouldn’t make it through the three-hour shift.
Salt-N-Pepper
(Illegal Mezcal, Strawberry, Bell Pepper, Habanero)
Matcha Yuzu
(Dewars 12, Yuzu, Lemon, Vanilla, Matcha)
Hot Cream | Cold Chocolate
(Bacardi 8 Rum, Cacao Butter, Cocchi Torino, Cream)
Peanut, Butter, Jelly!
(Grey Goose, Peanut Butter, Raspberry, Cocchi Rosa)
I started with the Salt-N-Pepper, a spicy, fruit-forward highball rimmed with yellow pepper salt. “Lick it, then take a sip,” said van Beek. So good.
The Peanut, Butter, Jelly! was likely the most buzzed-about of the offered drinks. For one, it was delicious—a combination of Grey Goose Vodka, Cocchi Rosa, Peanut Butter and Raspberry—but also for its signature garnish, a miniature sandwich infused with white chocolate and strawberry jam. The bread on the toothsome snack was firmed up a bit and reminded me of a cross between a Strawberry and Brown Sugar Cinnamon Pop-Tart.
My final drink, Hot Cream | Cold Chocolate, was a tale of two textures and temperatures. The chilled blend of Bacardi 8 Rum, Cocchi Torino, and Cacao Butter, was blanketed with a thick layer of hot cream (dispensed from a siphon kept in a warm sous vide bath). “Take a big first sip,” said van Beek, to encourage experiencing both elements together, especially as the temperature of the cream quickly drops as it settles on the surface.
Katana Kitten
I had to get back to Brooklyn, but when you’re a block away from Katana Kitten you can’t not stop in for a quick drink and say hey to Masahiro “Masa” Urushido, Niel, Armando, Cindy, and the rest of the team. “Hi Brad!” Masa bellowed as I walked through the door and up the stairs, arriving to a 21-gun salute of the hanging lamps over the bar swaying back and forth. There was no need to order as my usual Kirin Ichiban served in a frozen beer stein instantly appeared in front of me.
Antica Torino at Travel Bar
Then it was back on the subway to Carroll Gardens to Travel Bar, where owner Mike Vacheresse was hosting Paola Rogai and Vittorio “Uncle Vito” Zoppi of Antica Torino. It was my first time meeting them both in person and I really appreciated the amount of time I had to speak with them and pepper them with likely too many questions about Torino and their impressive lineup of vermouth and amari.
Neighborhood local Richard Martin, the co-founder and Editorial Director of the online publication Appetito also joined me at the bar.
I’ve been quite taken with the relatively new aperitivo Stellare Primo and ws thrilled to be able to try their latest release Stellaro Secondo, a floral bianco take that I hope to add to my personal collection.
Before I left, Mike (who always shares a pour of my favorite Elmer T. Lee with me), surprised me with a taste of High Wire Distilling Co.’s Jimmy Red Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Peach Brandy Casks.
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I then boarded the B61 bus and hopped off at my usual stop in front of The Long Island Bar to watch Game 3 of the NBA Finals in the Lombardi Room with Toby and our friends Mike and Cat, drinking a bottle of Casal Garcia Vinho Verde in rocks glasses over ice.
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Thank you for this report! I feel like Kenney and I need to head out for it one of this years.
You always take such wonderful photographs, of both people and things. You have quite the talent and I always look forward to them!