Making the Rounds at Bar Convent Brooklyn
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Aside from my recent travels through Italy, last week was the busiest week I’ve experienced, events-wise, in a while. The reason? Bar Convent Brooklyn. The Kings County offshoot of the popular Bar Convent Berlin, which began as a small industry gathering and has grown to a full-on annual trade convention, first launched in 2018 and was held in Greenpoint for two years before going on hiatus in 2020 and 2021 due to the pandemic. Since 2022, BCB has been held in Industry City in South Brooklyn within and outside of a sprawling collection of buildings and warehouses within view of Gowanus Bay.
The conference is a trade-only, two-day affair that attracts thousands of international members of the bar and beverage community. As a writer I’m able to apply for a complimentary media pass to cover the show, though in 2019 I was also a presenter, co-hosting an educational seminar on amaro with Amaro Nonino’s Francesca Nonino.
This was my fourth year attending BCB and it was my most productive experience yet. Holding a drinks-focused conference in NYC is a monumental challenge for so many reasons—the cost, the location, competing with everything else—including so many world-class bars to visit—New York has to offer. Many have tried and failed taking on such an endeavor, so BCB should be commended for their consistent run here in New York, though it’s not without room for improvement.
Read on for a splashy montage of memories from my spirited week at BCB and some of the events surrounding the show I was able to take in.
Sunday
BCB didn’t officially start until Tuesday, but after working on a story due the next day I then had to head up to Bushwick to help judge a cocktail contest for Bordiga. I’m usually not that social on Sundays and prefer to stay in, but I love Bordiga and spent around four hours tasting and rating 19 cocktails incorporating Bordiga Chiot Montamaro—a juniper, gentian, and genepì-based alpine-style amaro with notes of cocoa and black currant—to select three regional finalists (the national winner will get to travel to Bordiga in Italy during the juniper harvest).
Monday
I spent the morning wrapping up and filing my story (an oral history of The Long Island Bar) to my editor and then walked up the block to LIB to crash the photo shoot with VinePair’s art director, Danielle Grinberg, and photographer Jeff Brown. Needing a cocktail for a prop, Toby Cecchini shook up a round of Corpse Revivers made with his homemade Linden flower-infused gin that was quite lovely.
My next stop was Dante West Village for the first day of the pop-up of the Spanish bar, Boadas. The oldest cocktail bar in Barcelona that’s famous for their thrown Martinis, had a change of ownership in November 2022 when internationally renowned Italian bartender Simone Caporale took over the bar. I had never met Simone in person but I’m a big fan of his Amaro Santoni. Dante’s Rodrigo Octávio Leme texted me that Simone wanted to personally serve me the first drink of the day so I made it there just as he and bartender Federico Daniele were talking about the featured cocktails with the staff, then settled into my stool for a Boadas Sbagliato made with Amaro Santoni, Cocchi di Torino Rosso, Pedro é sherry, and prosecco.
After two hours I stopped by Katana Kitten, just two blocks away, with my associate Benny to say hello to Armando and Niel. They had just opened at 4:00 p.m. and by 4:05 p.m. every seat at the bar was filled with visiting bartenders in town for BCB. After a quick Kirin Ichiban in a frozen glass stein, we headed downtown and then up to the sky-high bar at Manhatta where LA’s Thunderbolt was holding court.
I’ve known Thunderbolt owner Michael Capoferri since he used to be with Campari (we even traveled through Italy together for Amari Club) and have interviewed him a few times for stories, but still haven’t made it to his bar. He and bartender Wes Meyn are used to taking Thunderbolt on the road and had set up a custom rig to capture the bar’s famous ice-cold temperature and “violent carbonation” of their signature cocktails. I started with a Paloma Rosa, a “soda-fountain style Paloma” made with Don Julio Tequila, grapefruit, gentian, salt. They were kind enough to make bambino-sized versions of the other three featured drinks to sample (one of the standouts was P-Town Boxing Club, made with Bulleit Rye Whiskey, pandan, coconut, butters, and lemon oil).
As the dark sky and increasing humidity promised rain, Benny and I made the trek back to Brooklyn to neighborhood fave Grand Army, who was hosting the now-shuttered bar BlackTail, where GA’s Ally Marrone and Patty Dennison first met and worked together. It was hot and crowded and there wasn’t a barstool or chair to be sat upon as the bar took them out to make room for the SRO-crowd of revelers. I even took my delicious Pineapple Daiquiri outside figuring I’d sit on a bench but all seating surfaces had been locked away for the event. So I finished my drink, settled my tab, and said my goodbyes.
I really wanted to stop by the Fords Gin-sponsored 15th Anniversary fete for Clover Club and am very sorry I missed it, but just as I walked out the skies opened up with a tremendous rainstorm. This was just a hint of the crowds, commotion, and stimulation in store the rest of the week to come so I called an audible and walked back home in the rain.
Tuesday
Though BCB is a two-day affair, I’ve found that I can accomplish most of what I hope to do in one day, especially as it’s not located in the most convenient location. In years’ past I spent a lot of time attending the educational seminars, especially last year as it was the only air-conditioned room over an incredibly hot and humid day (BCB assured me that the AC situation in the exhibitor rooms would be working this year and I I’m happy to report that it was), but this year I spent a lot of time at the exhibitor buildings, tasting, meeting, and talking with producers from all over the world. And I’m grateful that so many Italian brands and producers are in attendance at BCB, especially this year as I was able to conduct some interviews for Drinking Italian.
One of the benefits of BCB being in NYC is the wealth of events, parties, pop-ups, takeovers, and other opportunities orbiting the conference. I only have so much fuel in my tank these days but I spent Saturday night plotting out my conference schedule, following up on invitations, and making a list of the dozens of brands I want to visit.BCB hours are 11 a.m - 7:00 p.m, but with many heading out for post-show events starting as early as 5 p.m., I felt for presenters who had the last seminars of the day.
I was more comfortable moving around the Industry City space this year, but navigating the map of all the exhibitors was challenging. Some were in the same building, but on different floors while others were in a completely different building, and it seems they didn’t update the BCB app for this year’s conference.
And even with subways and ride-shares, the South Brooklyn location made it challenging to try to attend multiple, closely scheduled events taking place in Williamsburg or Bushwick or Manhattan. I know it sounds a bit on the diva spectrum, but publicist pitches with an Uber code immediately got my attention.
And I made sure to throw a couple of KIND bars and a big bottle of water in my bag before hopping on the bus to Industry City. But once I was there I was happy to see so many gratis opportunities to stay hydrated, with iced bins of Perrier, Acqua Panna, and S.Pellegrino scattered about, as well as exhibitors like Topo Chico handing out cold bottles of bubbly water.
I was only able to make the time for two educational seminars on Tuesday. The first one of the day was “Way Way Way Beyond the Bottle” presented by Amaro Montenegro and Select Aperitivo, hosted by Tad Carducci, Rudi Carraro, and Dr. Giulia Mattalia, an Italian professor of Ethnobotany. I know a lot about both of these brands but continued education is important to me when it comes to amaro and Italian drinkways, and it was a great opportunity to try vintage Amaro Montenegro from the early ‘50s and early ‘60s Select.
And in the afternoon I grabbed a front-row seat to “Aperitivo and Amaro: The Future of Italian Spirits in Modern Mixology,” a packed talk led by Dale DeGroff and T.A. (Ted) Breaux, who, in collaboration with Clear Creek Distillery, recently launched DeGroff Spirits. (I was especially touched when they shared a slide of books that inspired them when researching their amaro and aperitivo to see my own Amaro on display).
My first stop among the exhibitors happened to be Portofino Gin, produced at Italy’s historic Antica Distilleria Quaglia outside Turin. I kicked things off with a neat sip followed by a travel-size Gin & Tonic.
Italy’s Casoni has been around since 1814, but have been popping up more and more these days among the crowded aperitivo market.
A quick stop by Amaro Santoni to pay my respects and leave with a refreshing Santoni Spritz in hand.
Calabria’s Jefferson Amaro is a favorite “suitcase bottle” of mine but I had no idea Vecchio Magazzino was releasing a version for the U.S. market until I stopped by the Compagnia dei Caraibi stand where Alberth Fuentes tasted me through their portfolio of amari and liqueurs.
A quick pit-stop by the Nardini stand for my favorite Mezzo-Mezzo.
A little nip of Meletti Anisette and Caffé to fortify the many steps of the day already logged.
Always love visiting with Varnelli and tasting the raw wildflower honey used to sweeten their amari. When I was in Italy I got to meet and interview their beekeeper for Drinking Italian.
I first encountered Amaretto Adriatico in Siena and was happy to hear that their Amaretto Bianco, made with almond milk, almond liqueur, and crushed almonds from Puglia, will be available Stateside this September.
The London Essence Company produces a terrific lineup of sodas and mixer and I was able to spend some time talking with them and sampling some new releases, including a lovely Peach & Jasmine Soda Water.
Dante was stirring up a menu of S.Pellegrino spritzes and even had barstools in their booth. I had two Amalfi Limonatas (Brooklyn Gin, Dante limoncello, lemon curd. S. Pellegrino Limonata), one to stay, and one to take with me.
Photographer Gabi Porter was holding court at the Oliver McCrum Wines stand and wouldn’t let me pass without trying this trio of Il Mallo Nocino she was raving about.
And so nice to see of Federico Cremasco of Friuli’s Fred Jerbis, who I had the opportunity to visit in Polcenigo for Drinking Italian. And great to hear his new lineup of Fred Alkemi liqueurs will be landing the U.S. soon (love the Ratafia!).
Allora! It’s Bordiga Master Blender Andrea Del Gaudio, proudly sampling Spiga, his all-new Italian whiskey aged in former grappa barriques.
There’s always good things to uncover at the Haus Alpenz booth, like this new-to-market Aperitivo Mazzura, a new release from Cappelletti that’s more bitter than and made with all natural vegan-friendly, almost fuchsia color.
It’s always a pleasure to catch up with Edo Branca, who represents the sixth generation of the Branca family business, and Vice President of Branca USA.
And if you see “Big Cat” Jack working the Fernet-Branca booth in his MILF (“Man I Love Fernet”) cap you’ve wound up at the right spot.
It’s Letizia Vena herself, sharing samples of Amaro Lucano!
Ciao, Rhys! Ciao, Patrick! Brooklyn’s own Faccia Brutto Spirits in the house.
Don Fulano Tequila ambassador Christina Helmer isn’t letting me walk past without a shot of tequila.
After sampling dozens of spirits and running into so many people I hadn’t seen in awhile, I hopped on the B37 bus bound for Bar Goto Niban in Prospect Heights, who were hosting a happy hour for iichiko Shochu. It was a such nice event and I was thrilled to step into an air-conditioned room and grab a corner seat at the bar. They were making Japanese shaved ice outside but inside was just as cold with a Lemon Chūhai served in a glass made from hand-carved ice. Using a straw would have been a more delicate way to approach the drink, which was admittedly hard to pick up without worrying about it slipping out of your hands, but I made it happen. (I would also like to employ such a vessel for my at-home Diet Cokes.) There was a chill DJ and a woman writing out guests’ names in Japanese calligraphy on custom fans. And when they put out a buffet of Bar Goto Niban’s signature snacks at the other side of the bar, Kenta-san, was kind enough to make me a little plate. I’m embarrassed that I live so close to the bar and rarely stop in, but promised him I would make up for this behavior.
I wanted to linger but had an 8 p.m. reservation at the bar at Overstory, where they were welcoming the Little Red Door from Paris. It was my first time there and that elevator ride to the 63rd floor is really something else and then you depart and see that incredible wraparound view of NYC. I ran into a few friends at the bar and once I settled in I was disappointed to hear that they had already sold through their three featured cocktails and the Watermelon Radish (Woodford Reserve Bourbon, Watermelon Radish Liqueur, Baldoria Dry Rosso Vermouth), in front of me was the last drink available. But I was able to have some quality time with Little Red Door co-founders Alex Francis and Timothée Prangé. After the guys split I got to meet Overstory’s Bar Director Harrison Ginsberg and the bartenders looked after me as I stuck around for bartender’s choice nightcap and some excellent fried chicken before hopping in an Uber back home.
Wednesday
While I did want to to hit up two specific educational seminars back at BCB I needed to catch up on some work in the morning and then it was back into Manhattan for the Cinquanta Spirito Italiano pop-up at Caffe Dante with Alfonso Califano, Natale Palmieri, and Giancarlo Mancino. You can read all about on the recent “A Tase of Italy with Cinquanta Spirito Italiano” dispatch.
And then I bounced back to Brooklyn where Grand Army was hosting Miami’s Bar Kaiju. I’ve never been to Miami (I know, I know) and knew nothing about this bar beyond Patty telling me I shouldn’t miss them, and the guys (Marco Pastanella, Derek Stilmann, and Joe Canton) and their monster-themed cocktails and custom one-night-only red lighting really delivered. I particularly liked the Bigfoot, made with lapsang- and cocoa-infused Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Razz (raspberry) Vermouth, sweet vermouth, and Angostura Bitters. It was topped with a little confection and I was instructed to take a bite, then a sip (repeat).
It wasn’t until I got home and saw all the fun going down Instagram that I forgot Masa had invited me to a crawfish boil at Katana Kitten and I completely blanked on confirming or adding it to my calendar. I’m sorry I missed the spicy, messy good time.
Thursday
BCB was officially all packed up but the spirited activities spilled into Thursday with a media lunch with Luxardo at SERRA by Birreria atop the Flatiron Eataly. A menu of Luxardo-based spritzes were offered before we gathered around the table for a proper Italian lunch, a welcome sight after bouncing around BCB all week fueled mostly by bar snacks. I was seated next to Matteo Luxardo, representing the 6th generation of his family business, and who I’ve had the pleasure of meeting before.
After lunch, Luxardo introduced their upcoming lineup of cocktail bitters and we finished with a big glass of soda water enhanced with the aromatic Luxardo Chamomile Bitters.
Stopping by Mister Paradise for a Martini Hour hosted by Declan Mcgurk, the former Director of Bars at the Savoy and Director of Boatyard Distillery, and U.S. Market Manager Michael Smoley, was supposed to be my last stop of the night. But when Toby Cecchini texts you that he’d like to grab dinner with you at Rolo’s later, you say, yes. The event was as chill as the Boatyard Martinis and I ran into some great friends and met some new ones. I had an hour after the event to kill before heading to Queens and when I asked Big Cat if I could stick around and he said, “Of course. How about a cold Italian pilsner?” And that was just what I needed. And then I was off to Queens for a nice dinner with Toby.
Friday
On Friday morning, my story “An Oral History of Brooklyn’s Beloved Long Island Bar” was published on VinePair. I know you’ve read a lot here already (if you’re still here!) but I hope you’ll take the time to check it out. I’m really proud of how it turned out.
I’ve seen every Wes Anderson picture in the theatre opening weekend since Bottle Rocket (“You've never worked a day in your life. How can you be exhausted?”) in 1996 and I wasn’t going to break that streak with Asteroid City, and caught a matinee at the Brooklyn Alamo.
Believe it or not, I had one last event on my calendar, a sneak-peek at the New York outpost of Rome’s Roscioli, which I was really looking forward to but after a week of running around town, a Friday night event with an 8 p.m. start-time just left me out of gas. I regretfully informed the press agent, who understood, but sometimes you have to make the call to just stay in on a Friday night and hang out with your cat. If only I still had a cat.
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I am exhausted for you just reading this! So glad I got some QT with you! <3
thank you for featuring our amaretto ADRIATICO Brad 🙏 Can't wait meeting you in person, see you in September for the launch in NY ? Warmest regards from Italy